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Saturday, February 9, 2008

Twenty hours on a train

Once we finally found our seats amongst all the chaos, we put away our luggage and tried to get ourselves mentally prepared for the long ride. There were three other people in our compartment. One was a quiet younger guy, the other two were your basic adult.
We were all pretty quiet at first, but by the end of the ride we were all conversing as best as we could. I ended up learning a good deal of hindi.

About an hour into the train ride, more and more people started getting on the train. Apparently some people just ride for a few stops, but when this happens appropriate seat numbers don't matter much since everyone just crams in. Our little compartment ended up being where the card players came. There was probably 12 or 16 people all sitting around watching four or five guys play cards. I felt bad for Ash, as the female, she was definitely out numbered. I ended up sketching the whole scene while she sat and knited her hat.

Eventually most of these guys left and a new guy came on who was a friend of two guys in my compartment. The minute he sat down, I could tell he was cool. It's amazing how you can tell what type of vibe someone lays down without even being able to communicate with them.
Some of the guys knew a little english and from that we were communicating the best we could. The three friends were all with the Army and heading out to Jaisalmer to go back to work.
At one point we were all talking and laughing loud and listening to music on one guys cell phone. Cell phones are big here too, although the phones here are better. Video, music, bluetooth, etc. This guy was from a village and he's playing music videos on his mobile for the cellphoneless American.

We had a real party atmosphere going on and it attracted some other people. These two other guys came over with thier own cell phone playing music and wanted to join the party. But it was evident that the vibe they were laying down wasn't cool. Once they arrived, the joking and laughing slowed down and that uncomfortable silence settled on us as it always does when someone stains the crowd.

I liked the way the Indians handled it. In America I feel that some egos would be puffed up and people would use intimidation to push people out. Here in India, they just made them feel silly and not including them into the conversation. Eventually they left and we got back to having a good time.

EVentually it was time to sleep and laid out the berths and settled down for a night of freezing cold. Ashlee and I were about as unprepared for the cold as you could be. I had two bed sheets and Ash had a thick shawl. Neither of which did the trick.

In the middle of the night, admist the shivering and turning over, what seemed like an entire eighth grade class got on board. There was no pretending to be polite and quiet. They were as loud as they would have been at recess. Eventually they calmed down, or I fell asleep and I dreamed.

I dreamt that I woke up and Ashlee had put a big plush mat underneath me and she laid thick blankets over top me. All my friends from highschool were hanging around and there was an overall happy vibe going on. Of course, that was far from reality when I arose.
In the middle of the night, Ashlee bent down over her bunk to tell me it was 3:00am and we only had two more hours. I felt bad to tell her, that I was mistaken and the train didn't arrive till 2pm. She took the news well outwardly, but on the inside I think there was a tinge of disappointment.

The next morning and day was more of the same. Laughing, joking, talking. At the end, I was invited to stay at this one guys village next time we come through. I actually might take him up on the offer too. It sounded like a mellow peaceful place.

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