So finally we're in Nepal. I was excited about heading up this way and it's nice to be up in the real mountains. It seems like it's been so long.
Yesterday we arrived in Kathmandu. Cities in south east Asia are all the same. Chaotic, crowded and crazy. Initially there wasn't much difference between Delhi and Kathmandu, but after a few hours the subtleties became apparent.
It seems that people bother the tourist more up here. We took a cab from the airport and we weren't sure which hotel we wanted to stay in so we just headed to the main tourist section of town to get dropped off. The cabbie tries to tell us that he's only taking us to the beginning of the Thamel district. I said, 'No, you're taking us to this particular hotel. The guy at the airport said that's where we'd go. You say he's lying, well I say you're lying.'
He eventually took us further, but then another random guy jumped in the cab and said he knew where this hotel we were looking for is. Whenever someone wants to help to find a cheap room, all they really want is a commission from the hotel, which means the room is a higher price. To the confusion of the cabbie and the newbie, Ash and I exited the cab right then and there and decided to do things on our own.
We found a hotel that was nice in the afternoon, but once the sun set, the bar downstairs started and it felt like we were trying to fall asleep in a bumping music hall. I fell right asleep. When there is that much noise everything just melts together and it's all like ambient background noise.
The next morning we arose at 5am to catch the tourist bus to Pokhara. The bus ride wasn't as crazy as people make it out to be. The roads are tight, the cliffs are tall and the trucks are big, but all in all it was sane.
So now we're here and we're happy.
Navbar
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Monday, March 17, 2008
Checking out
Yesterday was my last day in Dharamasala. I was anxious to leave, because of my anticipation of Nepal, but I'll miss the place and when I return to India in the future, Dharmasala will be one of the places that I will visit again. There's a mountain village called Triund that is north of here. I wanted to go hike up there, but things didnt' work out that way. Other then that, no regrets.
When we were checking out of the hotel we had a long talk with the owner of the hotel. Tashi, that was his name, was giving us a little advice about our travels, buddhism and life in general. Whenever I checked out of hotels in the states I don't think I ever had a philosophical discussion about life karma, the future, etc.
That may be because I don't really check out of hotels when I'm in the states. I usually just leave. I figure they have my credit card and if they need something from me, well they can just bill me.
Tashi then gave us some sort of seeds for good luck and wished us well on our journey and in our lives. I think I'll stay at that hotel the next time. It had a good vibe. If you're in the area, it's the place across from the Green Hotel on Bhagsu Road.
When we were checking out of the hotel we had a long talk with the owner of the hotel. Tashi, that was his name, was giving us a little advice about our travels, buddhism and life in general. Whenever I checked out of hotels in the states I don't think I ever had a philosophical discussion about life karma, the future, etc.
That may be because I don't really check out of hotels when I'm in the states. I usually just leave. I figure they have my credit card and if they need something from me, well they can just bill me.
Tashi then gave us some sort of seeds for good luck and wished us well on our journey and in our lives. I think I'll stay at that hotel the next time. It had a good vibe. If you're in the area, it's the place across from the Green Hotel on Bhagsu Road.
Sunday, March 16, 2008
Tibetans Protest March
The other night Ashlee and I were walking around town when we sensed a buzz in the air. There was something going on, but we weren't sure what or where. The people's vibe seemed different, then we saw a video camera guy, and some cars racing in one direction. We eventually found out that there was a protest march going on for the Tibetans. I think the news of the Chinese crackdown in Tibet has been making international headlines, and as it should. China is lame and greedy.
Ash and I walked down to the Dali's house, and saw that there were not too many people around. We wandered over to the railing over looking the road and saw in the distance a huge procession of people each one holding a burning candle. The sight of all these monks chanting and marching was pretty intense. They filed beneath us and we watched from above as hundreds of monks passed underneath.
The monks made thier way up to the courtyard where everyone gathered. There were a couple speakers who were giving talks - in Tibetan, so I didn't understand the actual words, but the meaning was clear enough. It was very interesting listening to the speakers because I was listening to thier emotions and the feeling behind what they were saying.
Later a women got up and started speaking. She was on the verge of tears throughout the entire talk. It was moving. I'll never know her situation, but from the sound of her voice, it sounded like she was talking about a the loss of a child. Anger, hurt, loss, all these emotions were reflected in her voice.
I feel bad for the Tibetans. I'll never know their situation and what it's like to be in thier shoes. America will never be overtaken in the way Tibet was overtaken by China. America's fate will be different and more subtle. I think America will be consumed from within. So their won't be this big evil enemy to rally against. It'll be just a new way of thinking that will slowly erode into the rationality of the present.
Ash and I walked down to the Dali's house, and saw that there were not too many people around. We wandered over to the railing over looking the road and saw in the distance a huge procession of people each one holding a burning candle. The sight of all these monks chanting and marching was pretty intense. They filed beneath us and we watched from above as hundreds of monks passed underneath.
The monks made thier way up to the courtyard where everyone gathered. There were a couple speakers who were giving talks - in Tibetan, so I didn't understand the actual words, but the meaning was clear enough. It was very interesting listening to the speakers because I was listening to thier emotions and the feeling behind what they were saying.
Later a women got up and started speaking. She was on the verge of tears throughout the entire talk. It was moving. I'll never know her situation, but from the sound of her voice, it sounded like she was talking about a the loss of a child. Anger, hurt, loss, all these emotions were reflected in her voice.
I feel bad for the Tibetans. I'll never know their situation and what it's like to be in thier shoes. America will never be overtaken in the way Tibet was overtaken by China. America's fate will be different and more subtle. I think America will be consumed from within. So their won't be this big evil enemy to rally against. It'll be just a new way of thinking that will slowly erode into the rationality of the present.
Sleeping In
If you're thinking about coming to India for some rest and relaxation, it's possible, but don't think you'll get a chance to sleep in late. Every place I've been too seems intent on not letting me sleep in.
In Kerala, it was the lions that woke me up. Every morning around 5am, the lions would start roaring so loudly. It sounded more like heavy machinery then it did an animal sound. If I was able to sleep through that, then the morning bell at the ashram started clanging. There were a few minor bells around 5:15 and at 5:45 the mad clanger arose and rung the bell loud enough to wake the dead.
In Jaisalmer, the morning noises consisted of the bus that had a circuit down below our hotel. Eventhough we were a hundred or so feet above street level, we heard his honking early every morning. And in India the horns are a little different then the west. They are more musical. Somewhat similar to the horn in the General Lee, but less in tune, more obnoxious and way louder.
In Dharmasala the early morning noise consisted of fighting dogs. The street below our hotel seemed to be the battle ground for various tribes of dogs. I'm not sure if they were fighting each other or if they were fighting the monkeys, but either way the results were the same.
So it's early to bed and early to rise, but from what I hear, that's the best way to go. We'll see if I can continue when I return.
In Kerala, it was the lions that woke me up. Every morning around 5am, the lions would start roaring so loudly. It sounded more like heavy machinery then it did an animal sound. If I was able to sleep through that, then the morning bell at the ashram started clanging. There were a few minor bells around 5:15 and at 5:45 the mad clanger arose and rung the bell loud enough to wake the dead.
In Jaisalmer, the morning noises consisted of the bus that had a circuit down below our hotel. Eventhough we were a hundred or so feet above street level, we heard his honking early every morning. And in India the horns are a little different then the west. They are more musical. Somewhat similar to the horn in the General Lee, but less in tune, more obnoxious and way louder.
In Dharmasala the early morning noise consisted of fighting dogs. The street below our hotel seemed to be the battle ground for various tribes of dogs. I'm not sure if they were fighting each other or if they were fighting the monkeys, but either way the results were the same.
So it's early to bed and early to rise, but from what I hear, that's the best way to go. We'll see if I can continue when I return.
Thursday, March 13, 2008
Wired in India
Out of all the places I've visited I've never seen so many tourists with their backpacks full of laptops and cellphones as I have in Dharmasala. It's like a little hip haven for trendy travellers. I guess it's cheap to live here, so people can come here and work from home. Although, maybe they're are just surfing the internet and wasting time in a cafe when they could be exploring India. But hey, that's what I'm doing right now too. I'm just using someone else's computer.
Cellphones are rampant here. Everyone oand their uncle's brothers mother-in-law have one. It's absurd and annoying. One nice thing about hearing cellphone chatter over here, is that I don't understand what the people are saying.
That will be one of the things I will miss the most about being in a foreign country - the fact that I don't have to listen to other peoples annoying conversations. When I'm at a restaurant and some lady is yelling at her child or two people are arguing over something, it's all the same to me. It's just nice sounds. The musical cadance of a language I don't understand.
Here in Dharmasala, there are more Americans then I've seen in any other part of the country and their annoying meaningless banter is so annoying to listen to. I'm not saying that American conversations are more lame then Indians, I'm just saying thiers is the only ones I can understand.
Cellphones are rampant here. Everyone oand their uncle's brothers mother-in-law have one. It's absurd and annoying. One nice thing about hearing cellphone chatter over here, is that I don't understand what the people are saying.
That will be one of the things I will miss the most about being in a foreign country - the fact that I don't have to listen to other peoples annoying conversations. When I'm at a restaurant and some lady is yelling at her child or two people are arguing over something, it's all the same to me. It's just nice sounds. The musical cadance of a language I don't understand.
Here in Dharmasala, there are more Americans then I've seen in any other part of the country and their annoying meaningless banter is so annoying to listen to. I'm not saying that American conversations are more lame then Indians, I'm just saying thiers is the only ones I can understand.
Don't call the monkey
The other day I was sitting on the porch of my hotel munching on some biscuits. In India cookies are called biscuits for some reason. I saw a monkey on this other roof and I taunted him with my cookie. Not sure why, I don't really like monkeys in the first place.
This monkey became interested and he jumped over to our balcony and proceded to dump out our trashcan and steal some rotten food. Another guy and I shooed him away and then had to clean up the garbage. I didn't tell him that I was the reason he came over here. I could tell him if I wanted to since he's over on a computer next to me, but it'll be our little secret.
Monkeys like it up here in Dharmasala, they're everywhere. The other evening Ash and I were eating on a rooftop restuarant when a monkey climbed up over the ledge right next to Ashlee. She immediately jumped up and ran away while I just sat and watched him. The monkey didn't get too close to the food because some restaurant workers came charging out with a big metal pole and screamed till the monkey left.
Apparently the big pole comes in handy since they had a couple by the door.
This monkey became interested and he jumped over to our balcony and proceded to dump out our trashcan and steal some rotten food. Another guy and I shooed him away and then had to clean up the garbage. I didn't tell him that I was the reason he came over here. I could tell him if I wanted to since he's over on a computer next to me, but it'll be our little secret.
Monkeys like it up here in Dharmasala, they're everywhere. The other evening Ash and I were eating on a rooftop restuarant when a monkey climbed up over the ledge right next to Ashlee. She immediately jumped up and ran away while I just sat and watched him. The monkey didn't get too close to the food because some restaurant workers came charging out with a big metal pole and screamed till the monkey left.
Apparently the big pole comes in handy since they had a couple by the door.
Indian English
I'll miss quite a few things when I leave in India, but one of the things I'll miss most is the way the Indians use the english language. It's so unique.
When talking about being slow, they always say 'slowly slowly.' When talking about working hard they say 'I was working very hardly.' I tried to tell my friend Roop that 'hardly' means 'not much at all' but he just said that's the way they say things over here.
If someone is being jealous, they are 'jealousing me.' You can also be 'afraiding' as well. There was a sign that said, 'Child Beer.' I'm assuming it was really for chilled beer. There's a restaurant called the 'Chocolate Log.' I don't know what they serve and I never will.
The menu's are pretty funny too. This one place had different breakfasts for different countries. The American breakfast was typical - eggs, meat, potatoes, etc. The english breakfast was some nasty english food and the German breakfast was, toast, coffee, and a cigarette.
One of my favorites was a pizza place that advertised: Better pizza through technology and innovation. I'm not sure what technology they are using, but the pizza wasn't all that great.
When talking about being slow, they always say 'slowly slowly.' When talking about working hard they say 'I was working very hardly.' I tried to tell my friend Roop that 'hardly' means 'not much at all' but he just said that's the way they say things over here.
If someone is being jealous, they are 'jealousing me.' You can also be 'afraiding' as well. There was a sign that said, 'Child Beer.' I'm assuming it was really for chilled beer. There's a restaurant called the 'Chocolate Log.' I don't know what they serve and I never will.
The menu's are pretty funny too. This one place had different breakfasts for different countries. The American breakfast was typical - eggs, meat, potatoes, etc. The english breakfast was some nasty english food and the German breakfast was, toast, coffee, and a cigarette.
One of my favorites was a pizza place that advertised: Better pizza through technology and innovation. I'm not sure what technology they are using, but the pizza wasn't all that great.
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