A long ride back

So I'm back in the states now. I'll probably keep up this writing thing though. It's good for me. The trip home was slightly annoying. It's not like it used to be with the whole nine month boat ride, but it still felt like it took forever.

It started off with a nine hour bus ride from Pokahra to Kathmandu. We had the pleasure of running into some major traffic issues that delayed all the process. A few days in Kathmandu fixing tickets and such, then it was a early two hour flight to Delhi. Our ticket said the plane was leaving at 7:00. Although the airport didn't open till 6:00. And the flight eventually left around 8:00.

We landed in Delhi and spent the day there. Our next flight was to Bangalore and it left around eight in the evening. The stupid morons at British Airways wouldn't let us switch our flight to Delhi, so we had to fly all the way down to Bangalore. I know I'll never fly on British Airways again. Of course the flight was delayed, so we didn't arrive into Bangalore until midnight. Our next flight left around 6:30am, so we just hung out at the airport. No sleep that night.

That next flight took us to London where we had a nice 24 hour layover. We were going to head out and meet a friend, but we ended up being so tired we just crashe at the airport. Our next flight left the next day and ten hours later we arrived in Atlanta. Then it was a three hour drive to Fitzgerald and that's where I am now.

Pokhara to Kathmandu

The trip back to Pokhara was a little tedious. A couple hour jeep ride, followed by a couple hour hike. Then a nights rest, followed by a couple hour bus ride on this sketchy thin mountain rode. Then switch buses to a bigger one. A few more hours on this bumpy road and we finally get to Pokhara. We figure out the travel plans, and then walk around town for the last night.

The next day we take a bus ride to Kathmandu and run into some traffic. The bus ride takes forever. We get passed by a western couple on mountain bikes, but we eventually arrive in the loud, westernized, dirty, town of Kathmandu.

Kathmandu is filled with CD stores, email cafes, outdoor clothing stores, Thangka shops, restaurants, hotels, taxis, touts, and drug dealers. Everyone is trying to sell you something. It's as if white skin means deep wallet.

Overall Kathmandu leaves a bad taste in the mouth. Actually, it gives me a sore throat. I prefer Bangkok or Delhi to this place. Those towns have a little more character then here.

I walked to Durbar Square one day and some guard stopped me and told me I had to pay 200 rupees to get in. I didn't feel like doing that so I left. The next day I'm wandering around and I end up finding myself in Durbar Square but I entered from a side street. Apparently it's free from over this way. I did some sketching and painting watched the people. Again there was more communist mumbo jumbo. These elections are annoying.

Everywhere I go I hear about elections. I even hear about the American elections. US politics is news in every country. It's a little sad when you think about it. There's nothing more petty and annoying then US politics and our silly elections. So to have that be worldwide news means that everyone else is interested in petty squabling and mud slinging just as much as we are.

Jomsom

Today we arrived in Jomsom. This town is pretty big compared to the rest. The streets are wide. There are jeeps that go down to Ghasa or continue on up to Muktinath. We're going to take one down to Ghasa in the morning. Our hike time is up. We still have two more months before California starts, and we're going to continue our travels in the United States.

It's cold up here, but the views are nice. There's an airport in town too. Some people take planes back to Kathmandu from here, but we have to return some of the gear we rented back in Pokhara.

Truckhe

This place is great. The guest house we are staying at is very welcoming. The people are great and every question you have is answered with 'No problem, no problem' I ask where the bathroom is and they say the inside one is broken, so we have to use the one in the courtyard, 'no problem no problem' Yeah, no problem for you, but what about me if I have to go to the bathroom in the middle of the night. Although that never seems to be an issue since I haven't been drinking very much water. A quarter to a half litre a day seems to be the most I'm taking in. I doubt that that is very heathty.

Finally the trail is flat. None of this up and down nonsense for the past few days. It's nice that way. It's more like strolling then trekking. But strolling doesn't sound very intense or extreme so no one will tell you that they went to Nepal to do some strolling.

Even way up here you can get all the stuff you need. All the products are the same as in America. Colage, Snickers, Duracel. It's the same every where in the world now. It's slightly annoying. Diversity leads to evolution and change. If everything is the same, then it leads to stagnation.

Kalopani

Today we hiked up to the town called Kalopani. If you don't know where that is, it's right past Lete. In Lete we had to check in with the ACAP office. These are the people who keep track of all the hikers who pass through the area. It seems so pointless, but I suppose if someone falls off a cliff, the people can figure out what town the person was last seen in. That way they can dig through the ravines in certain areas as compared to the entire circuit.

It's getting cold up here, and the peaks are covered in snow. It seems it's been rainting in the late afternoons where we are and snowing up in the mountains. The air is fresh and clean so it's been nice. Fortunately the rains always seem to come after we're done hiking for the day.

I think this hike has been the most expensive part of my whole trip. The lodging is cheap, but the food is expensive up here. I guess if someone carries your food miles and miles from the closest real town, the price is going to be jacked up a bit. If you are a Nepalese and have a guest house up this way, I imagine you're rich as hell compared to your poor ass farmer neighbors. At least that's the way it appears. There's a big seperation of wealth up here. The western dollar doesn't veer off the trail very much, so a couple hundred yards can be the difference between wealth and poverty.

Crazy dream last night. I dreamt I had a hole in my stomach and these ants were crawling in and out of it. Ewwww. That's one reality that I don't care to be reminded of.

On to Ghasa

Today was another uphill walk. I'm curious where all the level hiking trails in Nepal are. I seem to be missing them. The trail today was along a road where a land slide happened awhile ago. There was a big road crew trying to fix the problem. It makes me wonder how long these roads and trails will be around. These mountains are young and moving quite a lot, so change is a constant factor. I was suprised to see a big bulldozer way out here.

Half way up the trail we stopped at some waterfall and asked some lady about the next place to sleep. She said there was a town right up the road. I was feeling sick and exhausted so I wasn't sure if I wanted to hike that much further, but she made it sound like it was only a 20 minute walk.

A couple hours later we finally arrive in the town of Ghasa. The stupid lady was the target of my annoyance and angst the entire walk. Ghasa is a nice little town. Again, we stay at the first guest house we reach. The people are very cool. The food was good and I slept for hours.

The next morning we were debating on whether we should continue to hike or take a rest day. Eventually we decided that a rest day is what is needed. Fortunately for us, we made that call. It started raining hard around noon. So we passed the day away being dry and hanging out.

It was my birthday today and it's a good place to spend it. I received an excellent Thai massage. Nothing is better then hiking and then getting a massage. I felt like a king and slept like champ.

Ghorepani to Tatopani

This hike was annoying. It was probably one of the most beautiful parts of the trail, but it was all down hill. It started out through this beautiful forest with flowering trees, then went down past villages and terraced fields. The trail passed through a little knotch in the hill side then dropped quickly all the way down to a suspension bridge across the river.

We left early in the morning after a couple paintings and started on our way. The mornings up here are cold. I suppose this is the mountains and all so it's to be expected. I'm looking through my journal right now and trying to write about this hike from the notes I took, but most of my journal is filled with my crazy dreams.

My sleeps have been filled with the most vivid dreams. I'm dreaming more here, then I have in years. It's nice having two lives. My daily life and then an entirely different existence at night. A week later, everything that happened in your sleep or in reality is just a memory anyway so they both just as real. I've been dreaming about old friends. These random people I knew in high school and middle school keep popping up in my dreams to chat it up.

Once we finally reached Tatopani we found a place to stay and went to the roof to paint. I started talking to this sadu guy dressed in the typical guru attire. He seemed cool enough at first. We were talking about the Bhagavada-Gita. That's this really old Indian book. It's a good one that'd I'd recommend to anyone.

He was a yoga teacher and I told him Ashlee was one too, so when she came up they started chatting it up. Eventually I got the impression that he was only trying to find someone who would help him get to America. Ash said she would try and he said, 'good, you won't be happy until you do.'

I thought that was a rude statement to make. Especially after we just got finished talking about how powerful words are and how what you say is just as important as what you do. Then he's gotta go and basically try to put a curse of total unhappiness on Ashlee. What a fraud and a clown. I'm glad I didn't do a portrait of him when he asked me to.

Apparently there are some hot springs in this town, but I was too exhausted to even go sit in a hot tub.